The era of sustainability is probably the most intimidating space to be in today. Dubious brand strategies entice us to refresh our wardrobes with supposedly organic clothing, only for the truth to unveil later that they fall short of the environment-friendly claims boasted on their tags. We are chronically wary of our fashion choices, aiming to avoid misjudgments from a multitude of sustainability advocates, and social media is awash with sustainability sermons. The point is, the current generation is under collective pressure to adopt a conscious lifestyle overnight–more to keep up with the times than to actually save the planet. Today, as the term "sustainability" gets casually tossed around under the pretence of a better future, we are ultimately buying more, we are continually misinformed, sustainability hashtags are only gathering followers and not driving any purpose and we are constantly being preached at–like a Spotify playlist on repeat. But what if instead of looking at ways that seem uncertain and confusing—we could go back to our roots, to look for the answers and borrow the simpler formulas for bigger changes?
Traditional practices of the older generations are frequently thought of and associated with being regressive. But, the Indian culture was ahead of its time. Considered only a few decades old to the world sustainability has been intricately woven into India’s culture for generations. Hand-me-downs from elder siblings served as the traditional precursor to contemporary preloved clothing; worn-out sarees from our mothers' wardrobes were skillfully repurposed into useful household items or even outfits for our dolls. Old newspapers found new life through recycling, transforming into covers for fresh notebooks, among other inventive uses. They were our own versions of conscious living– not preached but inculcated seamlessly into our daily lives. We were born into it. After all, what can be more sustainable than buying nothing at all or breathing new life into old cherished clothes all over again?
While our brains have been rebooted to constantly satisfy our desires for something new, it's good to remind ourselves that the future of fashion — something that even the most renowned fashion insiders swear by— is often defined by constantly looking into the past.
Rafugaari: The Art of Restoration
The act of mending clothes may seem puzzling in an era riddled with impulsive buying and disposable fashion, but it could also be revolutionary—such as the exquisite art of Rafoogari (popularly known as darning stitch). A highly skilled technique, Rafoogari is synonymous with the repair and renewal of textiles and clothes. The practice dates back to Mughal times and is said to have originated in the land of scenic beauty and exquisite shawls—Kashmir. Rafoogari was exclusively used to mend old antique Jamawars (or "Kani"), shawls and robes that were considered unique, precious, and royal and received a special place amidst other rare textiles. Its tools are primarily thread and needle and are based on the principle that an expert Rafoogar will leave no mark at all—and swear by the belief that only God can make the distinction. Rafoogars evolved to be the ultimate rescuers when torn school uniforms and formal clothes needed an expert fix, and they became a necessity when antique shawls and vintage coats would fall prey to moths and unfortunate tears. Various promenades in the corners of Indian cities are still home to old and rickety Rafoo shops that refuse to suffer the repercussions of fast fashion.
Hand-me-down Or The Passing Down Of Clothes
A popular trend amongst the young generation today, preloved clothing is more or less a commersialized term for the traditional hand-me-downs–and a typical Indian household is not unknown to its etiquette. The Indian society is intricately fabricated into the culture of tailored clothing-from traditional attires for ceremonies, to school uniforms and birthday dresses, outfits of children and parents were often stitched by family tailors who served generations. A wholesome wardrobe was an assemblage of well-tailored staples made from excellent quality fabrics. As a result, younger siblings were frequently handed down outfits from elder siblings, not only to save money but also because clothing a few decades ago lasted for years (as opposed to the overabundant fast fashion, which typically wears out after a few months)– and a savvy Indian mother would never underestimate its worth.
Repurposing And Upcycling
Every story behind an Indian textile is a revelation of skills, finesse, and creativity—from a hand-spun Khadi kurta to an elaborate Chikankari saree, and disposing of them meant throwing away months of hard work and expertise. Although one cannot reverse the inevitable process of expiration, what perishes must also reincarnate in one way or another. Therefore, an Indian household is often seen laced with vibrant patched rugs woven with multiple scraps of discarded cloth or blankets that display textile cut-outs from old and worn-out sarees.
Repurposing and upcycling aren't just concepts invented by the current generation on a desperate whim to save the planet. It is, rather, a deeply rooted historical concept that serves as a guide to life and a respect for nature's offerings. In fact, one of the best examples of upcycling is Kantha–one of the oldest forms of embroidery hailing from the subcontinent of West Bengal, whose creation is solely based on the stitching together of old fabric in layers.
Gender Neutral Clothing
Every story behind an Indian textile is a revelation of skills, finesse, and creativity—from a hand-spun Khadi kurta to an elaborate Chikankari saree, and disposing of them meant throwing away months of hard work and expertise. Although one cannot reverse the inevitable process of expiration, what perishes must also reincarnate in one way or another. Therefore, an Indian household is often seen laced with vibrant patched rugs woven with multiple scraps of discarded cloth or blankets that display textile cut-outs from old and worn-out sarees.
Repurposing and upcycling aren't just concepts invented by the current generation on a desperate whim to save the planet. It is, rather, a deeply rooted historical concept that serves as a guide to life and a respect for nature's offerings. In fact, one of the best examples of upcycling is Kantha–one of the oldest forms of embroidery hailing from the subcontinent of West Bengal, whose creation is solely based on the stitching together of old fabric in layers.
Sarees And Size Inclusivity
Every story behind an Indian textile is a revelation of skills, finesse, and creativity—from a hand-spun Khadi kurta to an elaborate Chikankari saree, and disposing of them meant throwing away months of hard work and expertise. Although one cannot reverse the inevitable process of expiration, what perishes must also reincarnate in one way or another. Therefore, an Indian household is often seen laced with vibrant patched rugs woven with multiple scraps of discarded cloth or blankets that display textile cut-outs from old and worn-out sarees.
Repurposing and upcycling aren't just concepts invented by the current generation on a desperate whim to save the planet. It is, rather, a deeply rooted historical concept that serves as a guide to life and a respect for nature's offerings. In fact, one of the best examples of upcycling is Kantha–one of the oldest forms of embroidery hailing from the subcontinent of West Bengal, whose creation is solely based on the stitching together of old fabric in layers.
Dori
A dori is a prime example of how the simplest of thoughts can make a significant difference. A quintessential part of a traditional Indian garment, dori is a size-inclusive detail that can be adjusted to the wearer's size, fit, and even discretion—considerably more efficient than the old hook and eye fastening. A long chord twisted with thick yarns of cotton or made of silk works as an adjustable fastener for a wide array of clothes such as cholis worn with lehengas, saree blouses, kameez, petticoats, or pyjamas. This conventional adjustable drawstring, popularly found as part of athleisure clothing today, can be loosened or cinched to fit different body types, allowing for a more comfortable fit and making it accessible to a wider range of people.