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The way India experiences art is changing—broadening the walls of traditional galleries events and platforms like the India Art Fair, India Design Week, and Ajio Luxe Wkend are embracing experiential formats, fostering deeper community engagement, and tapping into the wave of cross-disciplinary collaborations. An evolution such as this is currently expanding the reach of art, connecting with a wider and more diverse audience than ever before. But what really goes into curating an event of such scale and diversity? In light of this, Blur The Border delved behind the scenes with some of the most influential voices— Jaya Asokan, Alaiia Gujral, Misha Bains and Shalini Passi, — who shared their curatorial approaches for the recent editions of India Design Week, Ajio Luxe Wkend, and India Art Fair, respectively. “Internationally, South Asian art is experiencing unprecedented momentum, with greater visibility at global platforms such as the Venice Biennale and major museum exhibitions, including The Imaginary Institution of India. At India Art Fair, this shift is evident in the robust participation of international galleries, underscoring shifting public perceptions and engagement. As cross-border collaborations flourish, they not only elevate the region’s artists but also create new possibilities and cultural synergies,” shares Jaya Asokan, Fair director of India Art Fair.

A ripple effect closer to home has sparked a more dynamic and interconnected ecosystem. “I think after 13 years, India Design ID is considered a landmark design event in India. We get to shape conversations around design’s role in society, culture and sustainability, and there’s immense joy in seeing the design community and everyday visitors engage in fresh dialogue around objects, spaces and systems. It has become a space for a much wider audience than just industry insiders. From creating interactive exhibits as part of ID Special Projects to inviting voices from architecture, interior design, film, fashion, tech etc. at the ID Symposium, to collaborating with schools, local artisans and neighborhood collectives to bring grassroot level participation into the fold, as the Design Week of India, it’s our prerogative to bridge audiences and make it a barrier free and inclusive experience for all,” says Misha Bains, Fair Director of India Design Week, highlighting how today’s events reflect a shift—where fashion, architecture, textiles, and design now converge in shared spaces. This evolution signals a broader, more nuanced understanding of what ‘art’ truly represents in our contemporary landscape. “The exhibition ‘Fragments of the Future’ celebrated art as a tool for reflection, emotion, and collective awareness. It bridges the gap between the past and the future, urging us to rethink art’s purpose in the modern context,” says philanthropist and art patron Shalini Passi, who curated a diverse roaster of artists alongside interior design and fashion showcases, curated by Ashiesh Shah and Anaita Shroff Adajania, respectively for Ajio Luxe Wkend 2025. On her latest curatorial project for India Art Fair 2025, Shifting Horizons, creative director, artist and designer Alaiia Gujral, further adds, “It wasn’t just a static exhibition; it’s a living, breathing environment that reflects where design is headed through the lens of contemporary Indian identity.” 

Breaking barriers to entry and building lasting ecosystems that celebrate both established and emerging artists, these events go beyond mere showcases — they embody sustained efforts to uplift talent and offer artists the recognition they truly deserve. “The platform is designed not only to spotlight emerging voices in design but also to offer them tangible tools for growth. We’re building a long-term ecosystem—before the showcase, we provide guidance on contracts, help artists clarify and present their work, and open up conversations around pricing, storytelling, and audience engagement,” says Alaiia. Elaborating further, she says, “During the exhibition, the artists’ work is elevated, contextualised alongside peers, presented to collectors, press, and design institutions. We also facilitate direct conversations with industry leaders through walkthroughs and intimate networking moments. Post-show, we remain actively engaging and sharing their work across digital platforms, connecting them with future opportunities and documenting their contributions in a way that supports continued visibility.”

Although galleries will always retain value in their traditional formats, their current evolution is becoming more open and welcoming, encouraging audiences to move from passive observation to active participation. Such an approach adds back to the entire ecosystem, creating a more meaningful relationship between the art, its creators, and the viewers who engage with it. To this, Jaya adds,  “A key priority has been ensuring that the fair, along with our year-round programming, remains inclusive and accessible to a diverse audience. This is reflected in our dynamic workshops, talks, and art tours that engage all age groups, as well as in our dedicated initiatives like the Inclusion Lab, and through partnerships with organisations such as Access for All and LAND (Learning through Arts, Narrative, and Discourse),” adds Jaya Asokan. Offering a more in-depth perspective through a recent example, Misha expands further on her latest curation for India Design Week’s 2025 edition.“The special exhibition TRANSITION explored 45 Chairs by 45 Designers as a mirror of the creator’s mind in a period defined by innovation, consciousness and experimental forms of expression. The idea of choosing a simple object (Chair) was to allow a much wider audience to connect and interact with this exhibition. We wanted the viewers to posit the various internal and external influences that shape each piece.” 

Nothing is siloed in this process; it’s all about collaboration, where every voice and vision is to create something greater than the sum of its parts. “A huge part of the curation is also about dialogue with the designers and the audience. Many of the designers were involved in conversations as their custom pieces evolved, and that collaborative energy is core to how the show has taken shape.” Alaiia says, “I think collaboration is key, and thus I engaged in discussions with the artists and designers to understand their creative process and the story behind their work. For me, it’s important that the installation reflects their artistic vision while also enhancing the overall theme of the exhibition,” Shalini adds.

It ultimately makes one reflect on how curators play a pivotal role in shaping the narrative of art and design through today’s events, considering every detail — from selecting the works to crafting the experience itself, including the ambience that surrounds it. “The first step revolved around the theme of transitions in contemporary art in India. When choosing artists for the exhibition, I was focusing on those whose work offers diverse perspectives while aligning with the theme of the exhibition. I wanted pieces that challenged the convention, provoked thought, and provided a glimpse into the future of art,” says Shalini Passi on the overarching aim. On similar lines, Alaiia says, “We started by defining the conceptual framework—exploring how traditional materials and cultural techniques can be transformed into visions of the future.” She continues, “While each piece needed to resonate with the overall theme, it also needed to hold its own story. We were especially drawn to designers who are pushing boundaries with process or form, yet remain grounded in something personal or culturally rooted.” A crucial part of this process is also pushing boundaries. The curators aim to move beyond the status quo, opening dialogues that inspire new ways of thinking. “I wanted to select artists and designers whose body of work embodied innovation, challenged perceptions, and addressed societal shifts,” says Shalini. Similarly, “We sought out designers whose practices embody that intersection of heritage and innovation. We looked closely at materiality, how designers are experimenting with fibers, metals, wood, light, form and also at the narrative their work carries, adds Alaiia.

Additionally, it emphasises the creation of a unique environment—a space that is not only dedicated to showcasing these voices but also serves as a platform that reflects the collective energy and atmosphere of the event itself. For both Shalini and Misha, the challenges shared a common thread. “Each artist had their own requirements—whether it’s the size of the artwork or specific installation conditions—and it was essential for me to ensure that these elements came together smoothly,” shares Shalini, reflecting on the complexities of coordination. Misha echoes a similar sentiment, noting, “Coordinating across multiple brands and design studios, international participants, timelines, and installation requirements is a massive logistical challenge. From shipping delays to last-minute technical glitches, every detail requires precision.”

However, bringing together such a multifaceted community is no small feat, especially as it extends beyond its familiar stakeholders—galleries and buyers—into a more diverse network. “Aligning the visions and expectations of designers, sponsors, institutions, and the public demands constant negotiation and creative mediation,” she explains. Shalini adds, “We had to maintain the integrity and bring the exhibition together as a unit, while also accommodating the individual voices of the artists. I wanted to create a space where each work could shine, but also where the overall experience remains cohesive and tied together.” Curating such a platform also involves responding to evolving cultural and environmental demands. “Ensuring the theme is not just timely but also resonates globally while retaining local context is always a fine balance,” Misha reflects. “And lastly, incorporating eco-conscious design and practices—from materials used in installations to minimising waste—is not just an expectation now, it’s a responsibility.”

Despite the intricacies involved, the rewards in the end far outweigh the challenges. “I got the opportunity to work with many visionary artists and designers who are incredibly inspiring. Watching how the audience interacted with the exhibition and the conversations it sparked was truly fulfilling,” says Shalini. “All this becomes worth the effort,” Misha concludes with, “When you know that the platform we are building offers an opportunity to elevate emerging voices in design and showcase India’s creative leadership on an international stage.”

Watch the full episode on:

What does it mean to be an artist today? In our first episode, Mandovi Menon and Shiva Nallaperumal talk about creative discipline, collaboration, and the ways art connects to culture and identity. With humor and insight, they unpack misconceptions about creative work, unexpected sources of inspiration, and how their own journeys have evolved over time.

What We Discuss:

  • 00:00 Introduction
  • 00:36 Path 1: Discovery
  • 7:40 Path 2: Unblur
  • 11:20 What is your origin story? A pivotal moment or influence that sparked creative energy in your life?
  • 26:19 In terms of process, what are some of your go-to habits or rituals that help you get into the creative mindset?
  • 27:21 Path 3: Perspectives
  • 27:31 AI in the Creative Industry- Boon or Threat
  • 34:22 Social Media as a tool for shaping identity
  • 43:41 The Rise of the Creative Director

For feedback and suggestions, reach out to us at podcast@blurtheborder.com 

As always, thank you for tuning in! 

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The globally recognized and highly anticipated Vogue ‘Forces of Fashion’ is back for its third edition in India taking place between 14th-16th October 2024. This year, the event features a fashion exhibition at the Galerie Mirchandani + Steinruecke in Mumbai, centred around the theme of “The Power of the Indian Runway.” A coveted space that has housed contemporary Indian art within its minimalistic ambience for years, will now pave the way for the burgeoning Indian fashion industry — showcasing a selection of archival pieces and installations from 40 remarkable designers.

Head of Editorial Content, Vogue India, Rochelle Pinto shares insights with Blur The Border on the vision for this global marquee event—one that aims to reflect each of the designer’s house codes, inspirations and a dialogue between tradition and modernity. “It was a dream to create something that would allow the audience to engage with Vogue and fashion beyond the magazine or seeing it on their phone screens,”she says, echoing a broader narrative of the exhibition. 

Given that the audience has lacked access to such an experience since fashion has often been associated with exclusivity, it is encouraging to see how prominent editorial platforms are now taking the lead in offering audiences a deeper understanding of the craftsmanship that goes into designers’ work.

Curated alongside fashion and lifestyle journalist, editor, and writer Varun Rana, an exhibition of this scale required significant efforts, “We worked with each of the designers to hone their ideas and push the boundaries, and I could not be more grateful for their generous efforts. It’s a testament to the power of Vogue that so many designers gave us their time and creativity,” says Rochelle.

What’s particularly noteworthy is how this initiative has successfully brought together designers from various segments—both veteran and emerging—under one roof, suggesting that the fashion landscape is experiencing a significant transformation. I believe firmly in inclusion and democracy,” says Rochelle referring to the dynamic roster including Anju Modi, Abraham & Thakore, Shantanu Nikhil, Tarun Tahiliani, 11.11, Huemn, Pero, and Rahul Mishra. “We wanted to give equal space to all participating designers. I’m grateful to the designers who agreed to work with us in this way. Selection is never easy when you have such a rich pool of talent to choose from, it’s like being invited to an Indian wedding buffet and being given only a quarter plate to eat from. We wanted to showcase different styles and techniques, including a mix of popular names and ones that people may not be as familiar with, and highlight designers who have a strong point of view.”

Events such as ‘Forces of Fashion’ have begun to foster a sense of community beyond what can be experienced online. Undoubtedly, while we have moulded our lives towards experiencing the world through reels and digital images, an intimate and in-person immersive experience becomes essential. “This allows so many people to experience the incredible creativity of our fashion community in real life,” Each designer at the exhibition will bring their own distinct vision—from a fashion-infused bioscope to miniaturised couture, hand-embellished artworks to fantastic dolls. For Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, “The installation is presented on a new aged gunmetal beaten bioscope and a matt pedestal, complementing the dynamic visuals and adding a touch of sophistication to this fashion retrospective. For a fully immersive experience, we have provided headphones for the viewers to be transported through the decades of style, creativity, and vision that define RGRK.” Such immersive experiences promise an engaging day-long event for the audience.

‘Forces of Fashion’ represents more than just an exhibition. With each designer honing different mediums to represent their respective house codes, it reveals a pivotal intersection between art and fashion, blurring borders where history informs the contemporary, the purveyors of fashion and their audience. Events like these bring together the industry, allowing us to gain a deeper understanding of the diversity and depth of the Indian retail landscape, and help us champion all the international growth opportunities coming our way, collectively.

BTB Speaks to

Akhil Nagpal

For AKHL’s Akhil Nagpal,the true potential of Indian craftsmanship can be tapped through their innovation

Written by: Manica Pathak

In recent years, several homegrown labels have spawned a new wave of interest in India’s artisanal inheritance – dominating the country’s fashion scene with designs that favour modern cuts and contemporary styles in lieu of traditional silhouettes. When Blur The Border speaks to Akhil Nagpal, founder and creative director of AKHL, he and his team are amidst unpacking their recent collection. “We are trying to understand what the customer really expects out of the label and evaluating how to introduce new elements to our textiles,” says Nagpal whose label has emerged amongst the crop of designers innovating craftsmanship from a different lens. At AKHL, while structure, form and tactility form the cornerstones of the designs’ dramatic cuts and shapes, things are different. We don’t start with a sketch and then find a textile that works for it – it’s quite the opposite for us. The qualities of the textile, including its malleability and how we can manipulate or drape it, determine the direction of our silhouettes – That’s our USP,” Nagpal explains.

Akhil Nagpal at his first studio, New Delhi, 2020

The Wave Form Cutout Column Dress from AKHL’s collection Prima Donna FW24

With the prestigious Gen Next recognition and a series of innovative collections to its credit, AKHL’s trajectory as an emerging avant-garde is one that reflects on India’s fashion identity from its current standing. “I was trying to make sense of how Indian fashion can fit into a global dialogue. Why is fashion in New York, London, Paris or Tokyo considered global fashion but Indian fashion is just addressed as ‘Indian fashion’? What are the kinds of limitations and boundaries we have placed on ourselves? Can we do more to have Indian fashion be part of the global dialogue?” Akhil goes on to explain that the local and global appreciation for Indian crafts and textiles- despite the intricate weaving and surface techniques involved in their make – remains confined to the surface.“It’s a very orientalist view to box India as a colourful country and relate its artisanal oeuvre to certain motifs only.” he says.

“Why is fashion in New York, London, Paris or Tokyo considered global fashion but Indian fashion is just addressed as ‘Indian fashion’? What are the kinds of limitations and boundaries we have placed on ourselves? Can we do more to have Indian fashion be part of the global dialogue?”

But Nagpal does not imply that traditional aesthetics lack relevance or importance today. “A large market in India appreciates traditional aesthetics and is willing to pay a premium for it. Some designers have even successfully leveraged this part of the market. But while I respect tradition, my approach isn’t a traditional one. My focus is more future-oriented, looking at what’s next,” says Nagpal, identifying existing gaps as opportunities for his label in the Indian fashion industry while gripping both ends firmly.

This adds to the thought, that while the evocative pieces at AKHL bring to life traditional embroideries such as Aari and Zardozi, they are more radical, steering away from what we are accustomed to seeing. “For me, it’s not their surface-level engagement but the techniques and generational know-how that make these textiles and crafts Indian. These techniques have become more complex over generations and you can create them in ten different ways. Our kaarigars have internalised this knowledge and passed it down through generations. If you ask them to alter or adapt a technique, they are incredibly open to it ,” explains Nagpal, delving into the narrative that has found a strong voice in the foundations of AKHL’s collections, including Prima Donna FW24 and Gamma SS24. For such embroidery techniques- originating under the patronage of Mughal emperors in India- the label marries centuries-old artisanal handwork with upcycled monofilament and glass yarns, sourced from fishing villages in Mumbai. 

Pieces from AKHL’s FW24, Prima Donna

With AKHL’s pieces that have now garnered editorial features, donned well-known celebrities, and now also boast a presence in the Middle East and at luxury retailers such as Harvey Nichols, every start to a story has a purpose. Akhil’s unique take on the country’s fashion and the vigour to reimagine it can be traced to the India he was born in. “My parents witnessed the rise of a liberal, globalised India with access to Western clothing, which I was exposed to. I did not grow up with my mother’s traditional saris- she wore denim skirts and cool Western outfits. So, I am constantly thinking about Indian fashion in an urban context, reflecting its intermingling with global influences.” 

That Nagpal’s designs – so thoroughly inspired by an urbanised India- would also host centuries-old techniques is a sensibility that is honed from his professional experience. Working with Indian designers such as Manish Arora and Amit Aggarwal has encouraged a unique outlook on Indian craftsmanship and their innovation—a journey that followed his education at the Central Saint Martins, London, and a brief stint at Peter Pilotto. Here, he observes a contrast between how contemporisation is received in two different worlds. “In India, we are overexposed to our traditional techniques – which sometimes makes it challenging to appreciate or accept new interpretations,” he delves into the country’ where craftsmanship and their sources for innovation thrive in abundance. 

The Radiating Sequin Dress

Gold Double Slit Dress

The Arched Nile Dress

“But, in contrast, the worth and value of such craftsmanship are often much higher in the West. Here, handwork is expensive because it needs outsourcing from Indian export houses, as a result of which designers often resort to generic designs and techniques. So, when Western buyers see something novel done with handwork, it stands out significantly. They are willing to pay a premium for the craftsmanship because it breaks away from the cookie-cutter approaches the West is accustomed to,” hints Nagpal, at the continued need for effort from both ends of the spectrum and the importance of supporting new designers who bring fresh perspectives to traditional craftsmanship. “But I feel like the change is happening because many young and established names have opened the door to unconventional textiles. There’s Gaurav Gupta, Amit Aggarwal, and Rimzim Dadu – who are a generation before mine and have led the way in breaking into that market and now I feel like we have to carry their legacy forward,” he concludes.

Thoughtful Curations, Coming Soon

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