There is a common vision shared by every woman- to be able to wear clothes that drape and flow effortlessly rather than ones that take a significant amount of effort. With many sharing a challenging relationship with fashion, often excluded from the limited size range that the industry has typically favoured, Chennai-based label KAVERI takes a different approach. One of the visions that has brought the spotlight to the label is 'paying attention' to what women need and want. This perspective has paved a unique niche for the brand, with linen as a central element in all their collections. By emphasising comfort and the lived-in charm of the fabric over time, KAVERI emphasises that quality fabric can make all the difference.
Founded by Kaveri Lalchand in 2011, the label can be described in three simple words - versatile, style-oriented and easy-to-wear. Each outfit at KAVERI carries a personality of its own–rich in detail without being over the top. These pieces —whether a floor-length jacket, a chic kaftan, a couture saree or a comfy dress— feature prints and embroidery techniques, often a signature element in the label’s designs, elevated by the textural beauty of linen. While these details might create an image of an opulent traditional Indian ensemble, a glance at the collection will instead reveal KAVERI’s understated make - where one element only complements the other.
What stands out at KAVERI is their outfits are not boxed or labelled to a particular occasion but instead give the wearer a leeway to style them however they want. And despite being composed typically of pastel tones including off-white, rose and green a KAVERI ensemble can easily transition from a day-to-night look -perfectly accommodating to the dynamic lives of modern women. So, for someone who has often shied away from printed or embroidered clothing, KAVERI is one of those labels that ensure that a detailed ensemble does not necessarily have to be loud or flamboyant.
This approach – stemming from a personal quest – has placed the brand amongst labels driven purely by purpose, one of the primary reasons driving the Indian homegrown landscape to a global front. With stockists across borders - in France, Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Kuwait, and Qatar amongst others, and over five flagship stores in India, KAVERI’s journey is an inspiring one, revered by well-known celebrities and industry insiders. But for those who refuse to conform to market trends, KAVERI comes as a respite- laying emphasis on the notions that clothing should adapt to the wearer, not the other way around.
Kaveri Lalchand
In Conversation With Kaveri Lalchand
BTB: As the first all-linen brand in India, what inspired you to work with linen? What are some challenges the linen industry faces in India?
Kaveri: At KAVERI, we’ve had an affinity towards linen from the very beginning, drawing inspiration from its natural beauty, texture, drape, versatility, durability and sustainable qualities-allowing us to meticulously handcraft pieces that are comfortable, elegant and timeless. In our view, one of the main challenges faced by the linen industry are the rising costs of the fabric and the widespread availability of linen blends which do not provide the quality that many desire. However, the work that goes into linen in its purest form at a price that’s reflective of the final product makes them unique pieces to own and keepsakes for years to come.
BTB: Kaveri has scaled from a small operation with a few tailors in your parents' backyard to selling in multiple countries. What key learnings have you gained from this journey as both a designer and entrepreneur?
Kaveri: As a designer, my ethos has been to create garments that not only look good but also transform the way you feel - elevating a level of happiness, confidence and sense of perception. Staying true to linen, I’ve persistently worked on interpretations of designs and handcrafted with the fabric. Due to my extensive travel across the country from the early days, I’ve also ensured that I interact with my customers, paying close attention to what they want which has influenced my design decisions.
As an entrepreneur, I always thought beyond my humble roots of starting in the backyard of my parents’ home- envisioning a store, pan India presence and expanding globally. The key here is to pursue the goal against all odds with the larger vision in mind. My journey continues with the larger goals and strategically acting upon how to get there. This business has also taught me to be adaptable and deal with both the highs and lows with equanimity.
As creative as I’ve been with my designs, I’ve taken a similar approach as an entrepreneur from marketing, providing services and making my stores a bedhouse of creativity. Last but certainly never the least, there’s no substitute for hard work.
BTB: What role does the environment play in your work or fuel your creativity as a designer?
Kaverii:We are committed to making high-quality, handcrafted products that respect the environment and our community - beautiful and sustainable. Sustainability is trying to be as mindful as possible in every step of the product life cycle. We use linen which is the most sustainable fabric- the key reason being the entire flax plant can be woven into a fiber, which means that almost no waste is left over from the spinning and weaving process. We’re also bringing sustainable living to the forefront with our LOVE EARTH initiative: a program that up-cycles old pieces of clothing into adorable little toys, bags and accessories. This helps the environment and provides work-from-home opportunities to many women living in challenging conditions. Our interpretation of slow and sustainable fashion is about designing, producing and consuming responsibly- aiding the environment as well as the fraternity of artisans we work with. It’s about sturdy timeless pieces, produced holistically in their entire cycle; it’s about living more ethically and therefore living better. It might be a drop in the ocean but we have to start somewhere. So when you build your wardrobe with timeless linen pieces, there is a long-term value to this versus fast fashion.
BTB: What is a piece of advice you would give to a new entrepreneur or brand starting out in the industry?
Kaveri: Understand your goals beyond the product- such as the services you offer to the customer. The product is one part of your journey but the services complete the shopping experience for the customer and bookends the narrative from your brand as a package. It is good to keep up with the trends in the market but it is equally important to find your voice and signature in the industry that sets you apart from the crowd. To put this into context with my journey as a designer and entrepreneur: the idea for the brand spawned from my personal experience in 2011 when I struggled to find the right clothing that was visually appealing and comfortable to wear at affordable prices. This resulted in developing an ethos for the brand from the very beginning which is to provide inclusive and honest clothing using the finest linen fabrics for the women of today—catering to all shapes and sizes with garments that exude confidence, versatility and free-flowing comfort, making them easy to wear every day where each piece has a story to tell. Since KAVERI’s inception, over the years it has evolved from being a home for fine linen wear to an internationally renowned brand, expanding its presence online and delivering to over 20 countries around the world. We have also launched sub-brands such as Couture by Kaveri—which delivers elegant, luxurious, bespoke outfits handmade for special occasions; Baby K by Kaveri – which offers breathable and comfortable linen wear for kids in KAVERI’s signature designs; Biographie- which delves into the world of men’s shirts crafted from fine Belgian linen and a carefully curated line of contemporary clothing that honours effortless and timeless living with Love by Kaveri.
So in summary, my advice to new brands and entrepreneurs is to differentiate yourself, have a clear ethos, understand your audience, and strategically grow and diversify so you can succeed in this competitive environment.
BTB: What is your personal all-time favourite product?
Kaveri: Asking what my favourite product is like asking who your favourite child is. Every new product is my favourite until I improve upon it and on to the next one. That’s why all my clients will allude to this fact with their heartfelt response to the brand’s evolution and development. I love working with linen and different interpretations of how to present the fabric. Until I move on to my next piece of work, every new creation, collection and technique has a special place in my heart.
BTB: Where do you see opportunities for growth in the Indian fashion industry?
Kaveri: The Indian fashion landscape is going through a very robust and vibrant time. For one, the omnichannel approach allows us to sell products online supported by the presence of physical retail stores and B2B alongside pop-ups; is giving designers a wider market reach pan India and within Tier 1 and Tier 2 cities. Secondly, we are also finding that India’s designers are being recognized on the global platform. Third, there’s a burgeoning surge in brands which is indicative of India’s growing total addressable market for apparel. Also, sustainable fashion and conscious clothing are finding a greater voice within the younger demographic as opposed to just fast fashion. India has a rich history of textile, craft, and artisanal handcraft heritage that enables us designers to interpret it in the current context.
BTB: Kaveri has successfully established a strong presence in international markets such as Spain, France, and Lebanon. Could you share the strategies that have been most effective in expanding your global reach? Additionally, what future milestone are you most looking forward to?
Kaveri: With unprecedented access to social media, products are now within the grasp of a sizeable audience aided by a growing e-commerce platform for shopping and experiential retail that further enhances the experience for customers. Also, the global fashion industry is taking a keen look at India and KAVERI is able to curate clothing to fit their tastes and demands. Being versatile with your designs to suit the international market is critical if you want to grow into new markets. With regards to future milestones, we want to excel in every vertical- catering to customers through various avenues from online, in stores, B2B etc with a vision for a seamless experience across the board. We also want to present linen in ways that are unprecedented while always emphasising sustainability as our ethos.
BTB: If Kaveri has the opportunity to collaborate with any brand or artist, what would your ideal partnership look like?
Kaveri: If given the opportunity to collaborate with an artist, I would have loved to work with the renowned Mexican painter Frida Kahlo whose stunning portraits and artworks throughout her career have greatly inspired me. Another artist who has caught my attention is the Japanese contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama. Her installations, sculptures and use of colour are intriguing. When it comes to fashion designers, I adore the free-spirited approach to style by Vivienne Westwood; and the design prowess of Mary Quant who was instrumental to women’s style in the 60s. They among others have made an impact in their respective fields and served as a tremendous influence on those who came after them.
BTB: Which three homegrown labels have caught your attention that you'd like to give a shoutout to?
Kaveri: I have admired Péro’s consistent display of exquisite handwork. Too many to name, but overall I appreciate anyone who is making a conscious effort to revive handwork, artisanal and indigenous craft. From Kantha, Banaras, Jamdani, beautiful Shibori tie dye and Bandhani to the fabulous traditional silks from the South for their vibrant hues and intricate temple borders that are simply breathtaking.
