Between the push and pull of aesthetics and functionality, FoolDost emphasizes that for an outfit to truly stand out, one that remains a staple in your wardrobe for years, is its foundation. Highlighting the minimalistic spirit of India’s age-old textiles - contrary to the country's popularity for its vibrancy - FoolDost crafts elevated everyday wear using complex handcrafting processes. The visual textures that result from such complex weaving techniques, offer a classic appeal and allow for effortless dressing. These elevated designs are not only visually appealing - emerging from natural and uneven textures resulting from hand-weaving techniques - but also echo a deeper social impact. FoolDost’s crafted using practices that cause comparatively less harm to the environment.
Founded by Laura Halliwell in 2022, FoolDost is a Goa-based label that works solely with fine handwoven, natural fibres that offer supreme comfort while you go about your day - pieces that stay around as trends come and go.The labels boats pieces made from materials very intrinsic to the Indian subcontinent including Khadi, Jamdani and Silk. Their renditions in pleated and panelled tops, fitted and flowy dresses and bottoms underscore that such pieces are an investment to a holistic wardrobe. FoolDost also explores the potential of Indian textiles that are not traditionally used for clothing. Their jacquard jacket is crafted from repurposed Solapur Chaddar typically used as blankets.our heritage, setting new precedence of the commercial value of Indian crafts.
Their generous proportions make FoolDost pieces ideal for summer, functioning equally well as workwear. The tops, enhanced by box pleats and panels, are especially noteworthy. The label’s colour palette, predominantly comprising neutral and earthy tones, goes easy on the eyes. Without overwhelming the senses, FoolDost’s pieces eventually enable versatile pairing and styling options for the wearer.
While FoolDost focuses on creating style-led pieces its ethos is firmly rooted in conscious practices and its advocation. This sensibility shines through in their partnerships with social enterprises, initiatives and working directly with artisans. FoolDost is also uplifting textile communities in rural parts of West Bengal, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Gujarat, Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh and revitalising the diminishing stature of certain crafts in India.
Labels like FoolDost are bringing the entire world of Indian textiles - some popular while some unexplored- into the modern day. While craftsmanship in traditional outfits will always have a place, such labels are proving how the industry can evolve and preserve our heritage, setting new precedence of the commercial value of Indian crafts.
In Conversation With FoolDost
BTB: What drove you to work exclusively with traditional textiles?
LAURA: I often felt tht claothing was soulless and missing something, not to mention feeling increasingly uncomfortable learning about the impact of the fashion industry and certain textiles as I grew up. I realized that most machine-made, often synthetic-fibre textiles dissuaded me from liking and buying a garment. I liked the cut and design, but the fabrics were not doing it for me. After being exposed to India’s traditional textile world and spending years researching hand-woven fabrics, the techniques and the artisanal communities creating them, it struck me that the textures and the human element communicated were what was missing from most available clothing. The pairing of contemporary, minimalist cuts in these hand-crafted textiles, creates a more soulful connection to clothing, and I’d always want to opt for that. I get a kick out of those beautiful subtle textures of a hand-woven fabric. Combining these aesthetics through design and creating a business model that contributes to a positive socio-environmental impact just felt very right to me.
BTB: What has been an accomplishment that you have been the most proud of in your journey?
LAURA: Setting up our studio in Goa has been a significant step for me. I wanted to ensure complete control over the quality of our production and to be able to operate at a small scale. For that to happen, I needed a hands-on process, working closely with the Karigars rather than outsourcing production. We have closer working relationships and a flowing and creative sampling process. Importantly, it also means we have full control and responsibility for the working environment and conditions, which is a step towards my future vision of creating a larger forward-thinking, people-focused atelier workspace in Goa.
BTB: How do you visualise an ideal FoolDost customer?
LAURA: We see our customers as discerning, and sartorially and environmentally conscious, considering themselves to be a global citizen. They’re always looking for ways to contribute towards making positive change to the world around them and they hold a curiosity towards ancient lifestyle practices and spiritually rich cultures, drawing them to the Indian subcontinent’s traditions and craftsmanship. As a conscious choice against crass consumerism, they have a tendency towards minimalism and nurture a life of understated luxury, prioritising quality and thoughtful design. They appreciate the value of artisanally made goods and feel a deeper connection to the world when they buy artisanal products, but they often find that sustainable and ethical clothing doesn’t convey their fashion-forward preferences. They’re drawn to contemporary outfitting that has recognisable cues of craft to communicate their respect for artisanal practices. Our collections bring together these elements allowing one to dress in premium pieces that feel special, and that have a story that will further nourish their own.
BTB: What’s your all-time favourite product?
LAURA: I love our Panel Pants. They’re comprised of panels cut from super soft, handwoven Khadi denim from the Surendranagar district of Gujarat. For me, they’re the perfect earthy yet minimalist trousers. I wear them a size up for a slouchy fit and they go with everything.
BTB: Which three homegrown labels have grabbed your attention that you'd like to give a shoutout to?
LAURA: I feel A Blunt Story and Chamar have incredible products. The inventiveness of the repurposed materials, the design and the quality are beyond great. Both epitomise forward-thinking sustainability and are aesthetically on point. 11-11 Eleven Eleven is my all-time favourite Indian garment label, the application of the textile crafts is so pure and I love to see their growth as a brand, they are real industry pioneers.
